STAGE 2
MIDDLE FOR FINAL SHARPENING: FOR unsharpened blades, quick touch-ups and sharpening FINAL. USE SACAPUNTAS GRAIN MEDIUM
If you have just completed stage 1, pat or clean your knife dry. Be careful: the burr can cut like a sharp edge. Now you are ready to work the edge.
To sharpen worn blades and simply remove rough scratches begin here.
Pencil sharpener
Diamond lenses can be used dry or wet. Use water or water-based grinding fluid, not oil-based oil as a lubricant. Natural sharpening stones can also be used dry or wet, but wet is recommended. Use water, honing fluid-based or oil-based oil-based burnishing oil.
Sharpen the edge, following the same steps as in Stage 1
You can achieve a good, sharp edge and finish at this stage without having to go to Stage 3. Hone with light, simple strokes, from side to side, until you feel no burr on either side. To sharpen the edge or soften "sharpen scratches," skip this step and go directly to Stage 3.
STAGE 3
SHARPING good for an EDGE SHAVING
FINAL SHARPENING = natural stone or fine grain SACAPS
Stage 3 removes any remaining burrs and puts a burnish on the edge of the blade.
The use of sharpening fluids
Natural sharpening stone should be used wet. Sharpening will require a little cleaning, so be generous with the grinding fluid.
Use the same stroke strokes as described in Stage 1. Repeat until the scratches from the previous grain stone are gone. You should still feel a burr, but it should be smaller and finer.
Use light, individual strokes side by side. Make a stroke from the handle to the tip, then turn the knife to the other side and stroke from the handle to the tip. Repeat until there are no burrs. This last set the edge.
Repeat several times
You should not feel any micro striations on the edge, from the handle to the tip. The knife should be very sharp at this point. If the knife does not cut as expected, you may have to return to Stage 2. And remember not to apply too much pressure.
Chuck Buck Buck using Edgetek Pencil Sharpener
saw knives
Saw knives maintain their cutting ability long after a straight edge blade will go dull, however, they are much harder to sharpen. A flat stone or steel will grind out of your teeth therefore, a fine conical or cylindrical diamond or ceramic steel is recommended for this work. Each tooth separated very sharply individually.
Toothed sheets have a routine on only one side of the sheet. Only sharpen the grinding side of the blade. Keep the sharpener at the angle that matches the initial edge angle. Hold the knife with the edge away from you and the serrated side of the edge facing up. Adjust the conical diamond sharpener on a serration so that it fills the indentation. Draw the sharpener towards the edge.
The purpose of sharpening a tooth is to keep the ramp of the teeth to the edge. You do not want to create a beveled edge. Therefore, once again, we recommend the trust felt feather trick. Paint the teeth to be sharpened and follow their process. Evaluate if you are going to remove all black. It should not take more than 5-8 strokes to re-sharpen if your angle was correct. Rotate or rotate the sharpener as it advances at its greatest, constantly sharpening.
The recreation of the "initial sharpness" on a serrated knife is difficult, even if a sharp sharpener is used. But you can expect to get a "fix" advantage. A saw blade is more easily distorted through a sharp edge of the straight blade. Therefore, no sharpening less opaque points are actually visible.
GUTCHES GUT
While it is very similar in process to a saw blade, an intestine hook is milled on both sides of the blade. Use a conical diamond sharpener or a diamond sharpener pocket. Both are excellent tools for sharpening the gut hooks.
Do not try to fill the full width of the casing hook with the wide end of the sharpener. This will enlarge the curve of the intestine hook and distort the cutting edge.
Place the tip, narrow end of the sharpener against the open end of the casing hook. The narrow, pointed end of the sharpener should face towards the thickness of the blade, away from the edge of the intestine hook. Match the angle of the sharpener with the angle of the original edges. This will maintain the correct sharpening angle and prevent you from getting cut by the tip of the shovel. Keep the same angle when sharpening each side of the casing hook.
Rotate
In a forward and sideways movement, stroke the sharpener from one side of the gut hook to the other. Turn the sharpener as it goes. As with a sharp edge of the blade, the goal is to start at the edge and stroke away from the edge.
Do not overdo
Refrain from over-sharpening or putting too much pressure on the tool. alternate sides and check your progress often.
To sharpen hooks and other small, pointed objects, use Buck Flipstik Edgetek's portable fishing. They have a straight line "fishhook slot." Do not use a flat sharpening stone
Place the hook in the slot, and push the hook towards the end of the sharpener off the handle. Being a small, thin object, you will have to check progress frequently. A few hits can be all you need. Do not use pressure when stroking.
You can use the hook slot to sharpen other fine tip objects like darts and needles, too.
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